别人用过的口红 日本年轻人也愿买

别人用过的口红 日本年轻人也愿买

在日本,购买二手化妆品成为一种流行。节俭的年轻购物者在网上搜寻香奈儿(Chanel)和圣罗兰(YSL Beauty)的产品,这一现象表明,在这个价值240亿美元的奢侈品市场,消费者的心理是多么复杂和矛盾。

看不到垃圾桶的街道、高科技的厕所和“近藤麻理惠”品牌的极简主义而著称——日本人的“爱干净”举世闻名。但日本人对干净卫生的痴迷也有例外:这个国家是一个蓬勃发展的二手零售市场。日本国内美容市场是世界上最成熟的市场之一,拥有一个富有成效的生态系统,既有本土小众药店,也有资生堂(Shiseido)和SK-II等高端品牌,同时还有对全球奢侈品牌的旺盛需求。

然而,尽管听起来令人费解,但在日本的千禧一代中,购买二手化妆品正变得越来越流行。这一现象充分说明了消费者的消费心理,他们既热爱品牌,又越来越节俭。

28岁的东京居民Marika Sakamoto在日本最大的P2P市场平台Mercari上购买了二手化妆品和美容产品。她说:“当我买二手化妆品时,我最仔细检查的是二手化妆品被用过多少次,什么时候过期。”

“Mercari让购买这些产品变得更容易,首先你在日本很难买到一手货,再加上人们真的不介意它们曾被使用过,是二手货。”此外,购买二手产品更环保也是这些日本女孩选择购买二手货品的原因之一。

二手化妆品、共享化妆间,在很多人看来最大的顾虑就在于是否卫生。但日本在化妆品转售潮流中的地位与其一尘不染、讲究卫生的传统形象截然不同。

随着日本共享经济的成熟,一小部分日本千禧一代似乎愿意为了昂贵的美容产品而忽视细菌。在该网站的资讯页面,我们可以发现,Mercari允许出售用过的化妆品,只要产品描述良好,没有过期。

美国咨询公司高德纳亚太地区研究和咨询高级专家道格拉斯(Yo Douglas)表示:“如果你想试用新款香奈儿(Chanel)口红,可以通过Mercari以较低的价格试用,然后如果你真的喜欢,你可以再买一支新的。如此看来,这和从朋友那里买二手化妆品没什么不同。”

道格拉斯表示,尽管日本人对卫生问题很敏感,但由于相互理解,以及买卖双方之间高度的信任和考虑,二手化妆品潮流已经站稳了脚跟。她表示:“卖家了解消费者的情绪。”她指出,在向买家发货时,他们鼓励用户进行交流,卖家甚至会自愿更换用过的粉饼。

22岁的日本女孩桥本介绍,购买二手化妆品在活跃于社交网络的年轻人中格外流行。

尽管日本仍然是全球最大的奢侈品市场之一,新旧资金都在推动着奢侈品行业的发展,但日本的老龄化人口传统上将老年消费者定位为高端品牌的核心关注对象。道格拉斯表示:“与中国和其他新兴国家不同,日本千禧一代在财务上没有比他们的父母更好的生活前景。在中国,奢侈品牌经常聘请年轻的流行偶像作为品牌大使,以瞄准中国的年轻消费者。然而,我们在日本没有看到(相同的)趋势。”

购买二手成为流行,最根本的原因还是——“日本很多年轻人都在财务上挣扎……很难找到一份薪水合适的稳定工作,”桥本说。虽然二手化妆品的趋势凸显了这种两面性,但道格拉斯指出,全球品牌可以据此重新考虑自己的定价和数字策略。“例如,资生堂推出了一个针对千禧一代的品牌,名为Recipist,只在电商平台销售,价格低于资生堂的传统品牌。”

Why Japanese Millennials Are Buying Used Makeup

Thrifty younger shoppers are scouring resale sites for Chanel and YSL Beauty, a phenomenon that reveals just how complex and contradictory the consumer psyche is in this luxury market worth $24 billion.

Thanks to its notoriously bin-free streets, high-tech toilets and Marie Kondo-branded minimalism, Japan has a reputation for cleanliness. There are exceptions to Japan’s obsession for hygiene. The country is home to a thriving second-hand retail scene. Japan’s domestic beauty market is one of the world’s most sophisticated, boasting a fruitful ecosystem of cult local drugstore and high-end brands such as Shiseido and SK-II accompanied by thriving demand for global luxury names.

And yet, puzzling as it may sound, buying used makeup is becoming popular among a small but growing segment of Japan’s Millennials. The phenomenon speaks volumes about the demographic’s consumer psyche, which is simultaneously brand-loving and increasingly frugal.

Marika Sakamoto is a 28-year-old Tokyo dweller who has purchased used RMS Beauty and Nu Skin products on Mercari, Japan’s top peer-to-peer marketplace platform. “When I buy secondhand cosmetics, I always carefully look thorough about how many times has [it] been used and expiration dates,” she says.

“Mercari helps [make] buying these products easier, because you can’t buy them in Japan and people really don’t mind if they’re used.” The fact that buying secondhand products is more environmentally friendly is a bonus.

Even with the habitual “swatching” and testing of shades and formulas in the most high-end department stores, sharing makeup is extremely unhygienic. But Japan’s hand in the makeup resale trend is uniquely at odds with its spotless image.

However, as Japan’s sharing economy matures, a small number of millennials seem willing to overlook germs for luxury-priced beauty at a steep discount. An FAQ page states that Mercari allows used makeup to be sold, provided that the products are well-described and not expired.

“When you want to try a new Chanel lipstick, you can try it via Mercari at a lower price and then buy a new one if you actually like it,” says Yo Douglas, Gartner’s senior specialist for research and advisory in the APAC region. “It’s not unlike buying used cosmetics from your friends.”

According to Douglas, the trend has taken hold — despite Japan’s sensitivity to hygiene — due to a mutual understanding, and high level of trust and consideration between buyers and sellers. “Sellers know about the consumers sentiment,” she says, noting that users are encouraged to communicate and sellers will even voluntarily replace used powder puffs when sending foundation compacts to their new owners.

According to 22-year-old Hashimoto, buying used makeup is especially popular with those looking to use the product as a prop for social media posts.

Though it remains one of the world’s largest luxury markets with old money and new money alike driving the sector, Japan’s ageing population has traditionally positioned older consumers as the core focus for high-end brands. “Unlike China and other emerging countries, Japanese Millennials don’t have a prospect that they will have a better life, financially, than their parents,” says Gartner’s Douglas. “Luxury brands often hire young pop idols as a brand ambassador to target young consumers in China. However, we don’t observe the [same] trend in Japan.”

“So many young people in Japan are struggling financially... it’s really hard to find a stable job that pays a fair wage,” says Hashimoto.

While the used makeup trend underscores this duplexity, Douglas notes that global brands can rethink their pricing and digital strategies accordingly. “For example, Shiseido launched a brand targeting Millennials called Recipist in 2017 that is sold

only on e-commerce platforms with a lower price than Shiseido’s traditional brands. 南都记者 张沛 综合整理自 businessoffashion.com

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